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The Smoking Jacket of the Mid-19th Century [A smoking jacket is ] a kind of short robe-de-chambre, of velvet, cashmere, plush, merino or printed flannel, lined with bright colours, ornamented with brandenbourgs, olives, or large buttons The Gentleman's Magazine of London, 1850 Illustrating the popularity of the smoking jacket, the Gentlemans Magazine of London, England provided the following substantive definition: A kind of short robe-de-chambre, of velvet, cashmere, plush, merino or printed flannel, lined with bright colours, ornamented with brandenbourgs, olives, or large buttons. Brandenbourgs refers to a type of braid detailing associated with the city of the same name